The Next Generation in Interior Floor Coatings
WearMax:
ECO Friendly, LEED Approved,  
waterborne floor coatings by KraGil Inc.

Test Areas and Application Process

Sunday, May 24, 2009

6:23 PM

     

    Professional Coatings

    remember these are considered permanent coatings

     Important Notice

    Before you apply WearMax coatings

     

    Please read all instructions start to finish before you start so you understand the process!

    Mistakes may cost you more than what you charged for the job!

     

    Do not take short cuts!

     

    Testing the floor

    Always test the floor for moisture problems. Any excess moisture problem can be tested by taping a 3ft x 3ft piece of plastic over an area on the floor. Then put a halogen light about 4 feet above the area turn it on and leave it over night. If the plastic has moisture under it the next morning you cannot apply our product to that surface until the moisture problem has been corrected.

    To cure most moisture problems with concrete floors, you must strip the floor of paints, waxes, acrylics, urethane's or any other materials. Then clean and neutralize the area. Usually putting a coat of epoxy over the concrete will seal concrete from future water problem unless there is high static pressure involved. Retest the floor to make sure it worked. Then you may want to consider drain tile and epoxy. Once the moisture problem has been taken care of you need to make sure the surface is free of any waxes, oils or cleaners before starting the application process. Check the surface moisture and it should be 0.

     

    Clean up

    All tools must be cleaned with WATER ONLY.

    Each WearMax product must use a separate roller and t-bar sleeve. Meaning one set of T-bar sleeves and roller sleeves for shield coat, one set for Armor and one set for Primer. Do not mix them together it may contaminate the other product, at which point it may cause a failure in our products. Wash the T-bar sleeve and roller with water to make it more absorbent when starting out. Rinse out and squeeze out in a dry towel to get most of the moisture removed from the roller and t-bar sleeve.

    These are three completely different products in makeup. This is why each coat needs to be almost cured before you apply the next coat.

    Put roller and T-bar sleeve together in a plastic bag from each coat after drying to a damp state with a dry towel. Then close the bag so no air gets in and it does not dry out all the way. If a roller or T-bar starts to shed, through it away and get a new one. They are usually good for about 10,000 sq ft or so if you do it all at one time. But if the job is more than 5000 sq ft keep replacements on hand.

     

    Retardant 

    You can get a retardant for each coating to help slow down the drying time. You may want to try cooling the coatings down in a refrigerator or cooler before applying them. 

     

    Recommendations 

    We recommend that you replace air filters on furnaces with the finest filters you can find to stop foreign particles and hair from floating around and getting in the coatings.

    Also if there is sunlight on the area, you may want to cover the windows and doors with black plastic on the outside or inside.

    Cover air vents or turn off AC or heat until you have finished the application.

    Every condition you work in will be different. So keep a log book of the conditions and what you had to do to achieve good results.

     

    Applying the Product

     

    First Coat (Primer)

    To insure a good bond to the floor you must use Professional Primer. Start by rolling the jug back and forth to agitate the liquid inside to get it to mix, using a strainer for paint, strain the contents into another container to mix with a stick or mixer of some sort. (We strain all coatings to make sure there are no coagulations's or lumps of ceramic or contaminants when pouring. Do not use a mixer that is painted! The paint particles may fall of the mixer and suspend in the primer this could leave them on the floor when you apply the primer. (The reason you need to mix this product is the same as all of our products). We blend our products together at high speeds and sheering power. Our products do not want to blend under normal circumstances and they begin to separate while sitting. So, before you pour the products on the floor you need to mix them with a stick before each pour. Use a separate pouring container to pour the primer on the floor. Something with a handle and a lip on it for pouring. A two quart container for smaller job and a one gallon for larger jobs. Keep a stir stick in the container to stir before each pour. Yes, we understand it is more work but the benefits are far superior to other products on the market today. Use the proper tools for the job. A fibrous T-bar sleeve with a 1/4" nap 18" width is the first applicator. Second applicator to more uniformly spread the primer is an 18" 1/4" Moe hair roller. Start this application by pouring a 4-6" swath of primer across the floor. Get your T-bar sleeve impregnated with the primer so you don't leave dry spots. Snow plow the primer on back and forth across the floor, leave a wet edge when you stop T-barring, next roll that area you just T-bared. Use a back and forth motion a couple of times before pushing away and lifting off at a point somewhere past the point you last rolled with a solid roll. Make sure you do not leave dry spots. Remember if you are rolling this product you still need to feather the edge when you get to each end of the pour. You may want to use a 4 or 6" roller for the edges. Again using a fibrous roller with a short nap. Make another pour right away and continue the process. (Note) do not stop applying until you are done or have taped of a stopping point if the area is too big. Try not to make pours more than thirty feet wide at one time. This product can dry very fast at times, depending on how warm it is, how dry it is, how much sun is beating down on it and how much air movement there is. If you have to go over the thirty feet in width use more than two people, stagger your starts and have all of your products mixed well before you start.  Wait until this coat is dried to within 1% of the moisture level the floor originally started at which should have been 0. Checking the humidity of the air and keeping a log book. Track the time it takes to dry each time and this will give you a better idea of how much time it will take for you to finish the next job. Keep the log book with you so you can determine how log an each job should take.

     

    Second Coat (Armor)

    Open container, using a mixer for paint, on a drill, start to mix the ceramic so all of the ceramic is suspended in the liquid and nothing is laying on the bottom of the bucket. This process may take a few minutes so start it as soon as you get done with the application of the primer. Use the same snow plow procedure to apply the Armor as you did the primer, mixing before each pour. (Note) the ceramic may dry faster than the primer. The reason is the particles of ceramic heave up and millions of these particles will give this coat more surface area in the same area and will dry faster. When working large jobs have someone mixes this product way ahead of time so you don't have to stop and leave dry spots on the floor. Dry spots will be seen and everyone will see where you stopped and started again. After completing this pour and the armor is dry enough to walk on you may want to check to make sure you have all of the area covered with the ceramic armor coat. You can touch up small areas that may have been missed buy using a 4" wide roller with a small amount of armor on it and feather out that area to blend it in with the rest of the armor. Wait until this coat is dried to within 1% of the moisture level the floor originally started at which should have been 0. Track the time it takes to dry each time and this will give you a better idea of how much time it will take for you to finish the next job. Keep the log book with you so you can determine how log each job should take.

     

    Third Coat (Shield)

    Add Catalyst to the gallon of shield then follow the same mixing instructions and application procedure as Primer, start to mix the shield so all of the liquid in the Jug is blended. This process may take a few minutes so start it as soon as you get done with the application of the ceramic. Use the same snow plow procedure to apply the shield as you did the primer and ceramic, mixing before each pour. (Note) the ceramic coat will protrude through the shield and may cause the shield too also dry faster than the primer. The reason is that the particles of ceramic protrude through the top coat. The millions of particles give this coat more surface area in the same area to dry faster. When working large jobs have someone mixes this product ahead of time so you don't have to stop to mix and leave dry spots on the floor. Dry spots will be seen and everyone will see where you stopped and started again. After completing this pour and the shield is dry enough to walk on you may want to check to make sure you have all of the area covered with the shield coat. You can touch up small areas that may have been missed buy using a 4" wide roller with a small amount of shield on it and feather out that area to blend it in with the rest of the shield. Wait until this coat is dried to within 1% of the moisture level the floor originally started at which should have been 0. Track the time it takes to dry each time and this will give you a better idea of how much time it will take for you to finish the next job. Keep the log book with you so you can figure out how log each job should take.

    Foot traffic is acceptable after the shield is dried to within 1% this product will cure 100% within 24 hours.